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Navadni Nimda  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, December 5, 2018 10:33:46 PM(UTC)
Navadni Nimda
Joined: 4/13/2016(UTC)
Posts: 2,657

Enkrat septembra se mi je po lastni neumnosti naredil BRICKED router E2500 v3. Nato sem zadeve malo raziskal, nabavu ene par kosov opreme (pin headerje za board, 3.3V TTL downshifter za USB, lot aparat, pasta za lotanje...).


Po lotanju pin headerja se priklopim - in ugotovim, da sem se priklopil na napačen chip, Broadcomov BCM43236. Po malo raziskovanja sem ugotovu, da je to 5Ghz in USB IO system on a chip. Lepo se je javljalo, nič okvarjeno. Onda opazim, da ima tale E2500 v3, za razliko od v1 in v2, še drugi plac za 5-polni pin header.


Po malo telovadbe in lotanja, sem se dejansko uspel priklopit na chip in dobiti CFE> command prompt. Potem je bilo treba le še spucat "nvram erase", ter narediti "flash -ctheader : flash1.trx" - in takoj pognati TFTP s ta zadnjim FreshTomato-MIPS firmware (majo tud za routerje z ARM processorjem). Zadeva se je zloadala, zapekla in po rebootu sta oba radia 2,4Ghz in 5Ghz bila takoj vidna. ZMAGA!


Ta router je €40 na Amazon.de in ENAA.com, ampak sem hotu videt, če ga je možno rešit. Razen lotanja, je tole opravljeno v par minutah. Pa dobra šola je, osebno tega nisem še nikoli počel (lotanje ja, ampak pepčkanja s firmwaretom na tako low level nivoju pa še ne). Pohvale gredo tudi Broadcomu in seveda FreshTomato ekipi, ki nadaljuje izročilo Tomato, ki ga je prevzel od Shibbya. Sedaj po novem dela tudi 5Ghz del, torej za na blizu, če je velik folka v sobi. Če si pa v sosednji sobi, je pa bolje še naprej uporabljati 2,4Ghz radio. Kot so nas učili, nižje frekvence nesejo dlje. In sedaj smo tole z WiFi Analyzerjem tudi videli v praksi. 



Na desni strani se lepo vidi 5-pin header, kamor se priklopi TX, RX in GND. Ker smo fasali napačen chip, se je nalotalo še en header, levo zgoraj, ki se ga tle slabo vidi.



Evo, tukaj se precej bolje vidi, pini so bili pravokotni, zato jih je bilo treba s kleščami zravnati, sicer se ne bi dalo gor priklopit spojk od serial kabla. 



Hiter test na Telnet je dal vedeti, da je bila operacija uspešna! Kewl

Edited by user Thursday, December 6, 2018 12:48:14 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Tole je podpis, pod katerega se lahko podpišem! 8-)
kekez  
#2 Posted : Thursday, December 6, 2018 11:34:52 AM(UTC)
kekez
Joined: 5/9/2016(UTC)
Posts: 2,067

Jaz uporabljam samo routerje lastne izdelave.


V resnici sicer ni tako poceni, ampak dela pa točno tako, kot sem si zamislil. Material me namreč stane okrog 100€.
Za ta denar dobim 4-jedrno zadevo s 4GB ram, 16 GB SSD in 3x giga ethernet.


Navadni Nimda  
#3 Posted : Thursday, December 6, 2018 11:45:19 AM(UTC)
Navadni Nimda
Joined: 4/13/2016(UTC)
Posts: 2,657

Originally Posted by: kekez Go to Quoted Post


Jaz uporabljam samo routerje lastne izdelave.


V resnici sicer ni tako poceni, ampak dela pa točno tako, kot sem si zamislil. Material me namreč stane okrog 100€.
Za ta denar dobim 4-jedrno zadevo s 4GB ram, 16 GB SSD in 3x giga ethernet.



Kaj pa ohišje in napajalnik? Cena se mi zdi SUMLJIVO nizka. 4-jedrni AMD je €100, Intel-3 pa €130. Matična je €50. Lahko poveš kje gledaš tak hardware?


Jasno je to potem prava rešitev za router, ki je povezan v upstream in za lokalni LAN, daš un Linuxov router software in si up to date. S takim off the shelf hardwareom pa imaš vse 100% pod lastno kontrolo. Plus seveda tole bo dobro še vsaj za 10 let. Pod pogojem, da ne bodo spet novi Meltdown & Spectre variants.


Kaj pa radio, če hoče kdo delat wirelessly? Ne mi rečt, da gre vse samo še prek LTE.


Tole je podpis, pod katerega se lahko podpišem! 8-)
kekez  
#4 Posted : Thursday, December 6, 2018 11:55:20 AM(UTC)
kekez
Joined: 5/9/2016(UTC)
Posts: 2,067

https://www.pcengines.ch/apu2d2.htm



Wifi kartico ponavadi ukradem iz kakšnega odsluženega laptopa in jo vržem tukaj noter.


Obstajale so tudi variante teh plošč z GSM vmesnikom in na plato si potem vsavil SIM.
Zdaj se mi zdi, tega ne delajo več, saj se GSM tehnologija prehitro razvija, da bi bilo smiselno.
Zato pač raje kupiš en LTE USB dongle za 50$ in ga vržeš tukaj v USB port.

Edited by user Thursday, December 6, 2018 12:24:01 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

kekez  
#5 Posted : Thursday, December 6, 2018 12:01:07 PM(UTC)
kekez
Joined: 5/9/2016(UTC)
Posts: 2,067

Razmišljal sem pa tudi že o cenejših variantah v stilu, malina, pomaranča, banana...
Eni me opozarjajo, da ni dovolj zmogljiv hardver za bolj obremenjujoče zadeve. Npr. VPN, PPPoe, ...
VPN namreč zahteva šifriranje in tile AMD embedded CPUji imajo vsi vgrajen hw AES modul.


Navadni Nimda  
#6 Posted : Thursday, December 6, 2018 12:13:22 PM(UTC)
Navadni Nimda
Joined: 4/13/2016(UTC)
Posts: 2,657

Aha, tole je pa kul. Špecializiran embedded AMD narejen board, pa vse je že v enem kosu. €100 je seveda popolnoma sprejemljivo. Ohišja, ki jih nudijo, dajo vedeti, da je tole passivno hlajeno, torej nizka poraba, nobenih ventilatorjev.

Wireless dongle je vedno poceni. Plus, wireless rata hitro obsolete in je treba menjati. Security rulez.


Ta novi home-office routerji ala Google Mesh, sledijo Linksys, D-Link, itd, so €300 in naprej. Z malo iznajdljivosti se lahko fula ceneje prešlepaš tkole. Jasno pa to ni za unih 99% folka...


PS.
Maline in Pomaranče so prešvoh za resnejšo uporabo, tle ni dileme.


Tole je podpis, pod katerega se lahko podpišem! 8-)
Navadni Nimda  
#7 Posted : Thursday, December 6, 2018 3:36:26 PM(UTC)
Navadni Nimda
Joined: 4/13/2016(UTC)
Posts: 2,657

O BOŽE MILI, kaka stran! Eeek!
https://www.pcengines.ch/recycle.htm


Meni delujejo, kot fula resna in sposobna firma, da pa ima EU 28 "okoljskih" regulacij za 28 različnih držav pa še jaz nisem vedel.

Edited by user Thursday, December 6, 2018 3:37:14 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Tole je podpis, pod katerega se lahko podpišem! 8-)
recsin  
#8 Posted : Saturday, December 29, 2018 2:24:32 PM(UTC)
recsin
Joined: 12/29/2018(UTC)
Posts: 14

hi Navadni Nimda  


i really apriciate to hear from you this message that you can hadled with e2500v3


i did same think as you and brick my e2550v3.


i flashed wrong openwrt firmware now it is not responding.


i looked at your uploaed picture and saw mine and yours are  same electornic card.


please help me which socket and which pins did you use?  tx, rx, gnd etc.....


there is a "x" mark near the 5 pins on the right side on your picture. it is the pins we will use it? please also mark on the same picture which pins tx, rx, gnd


and please which adaptor (usb to ttl ???) and program you used for flashing.


i am looking fordward to your message. 


Edited by user Saturday, December 29, 2018 2:32:33 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Navadni Nimda  
#9 Posted : Saturday, December 29, 2018 3:14:00 PM(UTC)
Navadni Nimda
Joined: 4/13/2016(UTC)
Posts: 2,657

Hi.

Yes, I had flashed a wrong firmware version, the router would blink a few times and then just hang there, not responding. I did the flashing recently, so I think I can help you here through the whole sequence.


The chip you want is NOT the one on the right (that is the 5Ghz wireless + USB controller). You want the one on the left, right next to the ON/OFF button. If you look closely at the annotated photo, you will see the 5 pins have been straightened out, as they originally had right angles. Just use 2 sets of pliers and carefully straighten them out. I had to do this, as there is just not enough space. Then, do the soldering on the bottom.


You can carefully remove the black wire from the motherboard, as it is snapped to a little golden connector on the top side. The other wire is long enough and it won't bother you, when you turn the board.



The lowest one here is PIN #1 +5V, also has a square marking. Others are round, with PIN #5 the one highest up.


Pin #5 -- GND.
Pin #4 -- UNUSED. Solder only if you want for sturdiness of the five pinheaders.
Pin #3 -- TX or RX (we'll get to that later, it's the funny part of the story)
Pin #2 -- RX or TX
Pin #1 -- 5V. This one you don't need, solder only if you want sturdiness of the pinheaders.


So, you need pins 2,3 and 5 for flashing of the chip. If you have separate pin-headers, you only need these 3 connections. I used a block of 5 connected pinheaders, as it looks more sturdy.


Then, get a 3.3V level shifter, like this one which has a jumper, allowing 5V or 3.3V. So you first move the jumper to 3.3. And while the jumper is off, find the markings for the GND, RX and TX pins. Also, this particular one has a MINI-USB connector, so you also need a USB-To-Mini-USB cable.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FTDI-USB-to-TTL-Serial-Adapter-Module-for-Arduino-Mini-Port-FT232RL-3-3V-5-5V/192696691387


Pin-headers - I found only right-angled ones:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Pcs-40-Pins-2-54mm-Pitch-Single-Row-Right-Angle-PCB-Board-Pin-Headers-D7FD7F5-/183548890465?hash=item2abc5dcd61


If you have not yet done any soldering: try to be quick (to not overheat the rest of the board) when removing the soldering, which covers the holes. Then push the pin-headers through from the top, so the short ends come up on the bottom side of the motherboard. Then just add a drop of solder on each of the 3 pins (or all 5 for more sturdiness). Try not to touch the board with the hot soldering iron if possible.


This should do the hardware part of the exercise. When you do this, you can get back at me, and I can walk you thru the software part, which is really quick and easy.

Edited by user Saturday, December 29, 2018 6:43:55 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Tole je podpis, pod katerega se lahko podpišem! 8-)
mungo  
#10 Posted : Saturday, December 29, 2018 4:45:45 PM(UTC)
mungo
Joined: 7/22/2017(UTC)
Posts: 488

Ta FTDI imam celo jst doma, samo ga nisem nikoli uporabil. Verjetno je tako, da mora biti RX priklopljen na TX in obratno. Dno


Navadni Nimda  
#11 Posted : Saturday, December 29, 2018 4:49:09 PM(UTC)
Navadni Nimda
Joined: 4/13/2016(UTC)
Posts: 2,657

Da, hardwareaši imajo v glavah narobe pomešano. Zato pač najprej priklopiš (vseeno kako), ko potem ne dela, pač obrneš TX in RX. Iz prve nikoli ne rata. ResNo!


Tole je podpis, pod katerega se lahko podpišem! 8-)
mungo  
#12 Posted : Saturday, December 29, 2018 4:54:45 PM(UTC)
mungo
Joined: 7/22/2017(UTC)
Posts: 488

Gre za to da je transmit linija unega Broadcom čipa vezana na receive linijo FTDI čipa in obratno. Saj je popolnoma logično. Dno


Navadni Nimda  
#13 Posted : Saturday, December 29, 2018 5:16:11 PM(UTC)
Navadni Nimda
Joined: 4/13/2016(UTC)
Posts: 2,657

Logično bi bilo tole - da imajo pine v pravilnem vrstnem redu, torej najprej TX, nato RX, kot je na motherboardu. Potem pa obrneš (prekrižaš) žice. Ne pa da hardwareaši na unem FTDI odločajo in mislijo, kako naj jaz mislim, da je. Ampak, no big deal... saj zato se ne lota direktno, ampak s pin-headers pač obrneš, če ne dela s prve. In še nikoli ni, tud recimo USB kabl vklopit, če je na zadnjem backpanelu PCja, kjer ne vidiš, vedno vsaj 2x prej obrneš. Long live USB-CROFLMAO


Tole je podpis, pod katerega se lahko podpišem! 8-)
recsin  
#14 Posted : Saturday, December 29, 2018 7:40:25 PM(UTC)
recsin
Joined: 12/29/2018(UTC)
Posts: 14

are you a teacher Navadni Nimda :)


thank you for your wonderful effort


please look at the picture below and correct me if the pin squence is true??



 


and ok in the the picture below you suggested device we must use ;)


 


Edited by user Saturday, December 29, 2018 8:32:02 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Navadni Nimda  
#15 Posted : Saturday, December 29, 2018 7:51:40 PM(UTC)
Navadni Nimda
Joined: 4/13/2016(UTC)
Posts: 2,657

I do NOT see the images (403 Forbidden).

(You can also use this forum, to upload pics. Click on your name on the upper right side of the page, and you can drag & drop images there.)

Edited by user Saturday, December 29, 2018 7:53:04 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Tole je podpis, pod katerega se lahko podpišem! 8-)
Navadni Nimda  
#16 Posted : Saturday, December 29, 2018 7:57:52 PM(UTC)
Navadni Nimda
Joined: 4/13/2016(UTC)
Posts: 2,657
PL2303 USB-TTL Seri - Usb To Rs232

This one is NOT good, as it outputs at 5 Volts. Your chip works at 3.3 Volts and has overvoltage protection. Find a 3.3 Volt downshifter, like the one I suggested.

Tole je podpis, pod katerega se lahko podpišem! 8-)
recsin  
#17 Posted : Saturday, December 29, 2018 8:00:32 PM(UTC)
recsin
Joined: 12/29/2018(UTC)
Posts: 14

now you can see pictures?


i dont understand picture style of this site :)


anyway please open some topics on dd-wrt and advanced tomato etc. sites.


i saw a lot of poeple waiting help for this problem:)


 

Edited by user Saturday, December 29, 2018 8:03:19 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Navadni Nimda  
#18 Posted : Saturday, December 29, 2018 8:13:28 PM(UTC)
Navadni Nimda
Joined: 4/13/2016(UTC)
Posts: 2,657


PIN layout: YES!
Antenna pin removal: YES!


Tole je podpis, pod katerega se lahko podpišem! 8-)
Navadni Nimda  
#19 Posted : Saturday, December 29, 2018 8:17:05 PM(UTC)
Navadni Nimda
Joined: 4/13/2016(UTC)
Posts: 2,657


This looks like it has a 3.3Volts output pin. Is there any way you can tell this USB to Serial converter to output TX in 3.3Volts? The one I gave you, had a jumper for this. If this one has a jumper (or something) on the top, then it is OK.


Tole je podpis, pod katerega se lahko podpišem! 8-)
recsin  
#20 Posted : Saturday, December 29, 2018 8:39:05 PM(UTC)
recsin
Joined: 12/29/2018(UTC)
Posts: 14

alright  my friend i apriciate you untill this point we came. 


i am asking for you again opening a topic on modem custom firmware websites:)


whenever i got the device we will go on process.


i think it will take time to receive it:)


best regards...


 


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